9. Mary Thompson makes her own underwear of cotton crepe instead of longcloth so that she can wash it herself as the crepe does not need to be ironed. What is the cost of 4 combination suits and 2 nightgowns if the underwear crepe is 32 cents a yard; lace is 16 cents a yard; beading, 15 cents a yard; and thread, 6 cents a spool? What does she save in laundry bills in a year if she wears 2 suits and 1 nightgown a week and the cost of laundering is 10 cents apiece for combination suits and 12 cents for nightgowns? 10. Elizabeth Marshall, a high school girl, decided to make her own clothes. From the list on page 95 of the garments that she selected and the quantity and the price of materials used, find the total cost of her clothing exclusive of the cost of the labor. 11. Elizabeth wished to know how much she had saved by her sewing but found that she could not get ready-made garments of as good quality of material as that she had used. The prices of the garments she selected for the purpose of comparison were as follows: Nightgown, $1.75; serge dress, $18; blue wool skirt, $8; white cotton skirt, $3; gingham dress, $3.50; white petticoat, $4; dark underskirt, $1.50; combination suit, $2.25; bloomers, $1.50; blouse, $1.50. How much did she save? 12. Estimate the cost of materials for replacing your present supply of underwear if the new garments are made at home. 13. How much would you have to pay for ready-made underwear to replace your present supply? 14. Estimate the number of hours it would take you to make your underwear and find the value of your labor at the local prices paid for sewing. AMOUNT OF MATERIAL FOR GARMENTS In estimating the amount of material needed for straight skirts. (Fig. 14) and similar garments, such as petticoats, nightgowns, aprons, and plain chemises, state the results to the nearest oneeighth or one-fourth yard, since these are the measures used in the stores. RULE. (a) To find the number of lengths needed for straight skirts divide the total breadth of the bottom of the skirt by the width of the material. Consider a fractional part of a length as a whole length unless it is possible to secure the desired effect by omitting the fractional part of the length. (b) To allow for hems, add the width of the hem to the finished length. (c) To find the amount of material needed, multiply the total length by the number of lengths. EXERCISE IV Problem.-How much lawn, 4 yard wide, will be needed for a plain petticoat 24 inches long which measures 3 yards around the bottom and is finished with a 22-inch hem? 3÷3⁄44=4, that is, the number of lengths required is 4. 21 in. +21⁄2 in.: 261⁄2 in., or approximately 4 yd., the total length. 4 X 4 yd.3 yd., that is, 3 yards of lawn will be needed for the petticoat., 1. How many yards of 30-inch muslin are needed for a straight skirt 22 inches long, 12 yards around the bottom, and finished with a 3-inch hem? 2. How many yards of muslin 1 yard wide are needed for 6 petticoats, each 16 inches long, 12 yards around the bottom, and finished with a 2-inch hem? 3. How many yards of muslin 30 inches wide are needed for 6 straight petticoats, each 25 inches long, 22 yards around the bottom, and finished with a 211⁄2-inch hem? 4. A kilted skirt 24 inches long is to measure 4 yards around the bottom. How many yards of 42-inch serge are required? Allow 32 inches for a hem. 5. A dancing frock is to have a plaited skirt 5 yards around the bottom. How many yards of crêpe de Chine 44 inches wide are required? Allow 3 inches for a hem. 6. How much longcloth, one yard wide, is needed for a kimono nightgown 54 inches long, 2 yards around the bottom, and finished with a 2-inch hem? 7. How much cotton crepe, 30 inches wide, is needed for a nightgown 47 inches long, 212 yards around the bottom, and finished with a 2-inch hem, if it has set-in sleeves 12 inches long, finished with a 34-inch hem? (One length will be needed for each sleeve.) WAISTS RULE. (a) To find the amount of narrow material needed for shirtwaists, add the length of the sleeve without the cuff, length of the back, including the peplum, and twice the total length of the front, including the amount allowed for the peplum (i.e., the part of the waist below the belt line). (b) To find the amount needed when the material is 34 to 36 inches wide, add the length of the back, including the peplum, twice the total length of the front, and 2/3 the sleeve length without the cuff (Figs. 15 and 16). EXERCISE V 1. How much madras 27 inches wide is required for a plain shirtwaist that extends 3 inches below the belt line? The length of the back is 15 inches to the belt, the length of the front is 16 inches, the length of the sleeve is 18 inches (Rule a). 2. How much percale one yard wide is required for this waist, if rule b is used? 3. What is the difference between the two estimates? 4. How much linen 30 inches wide is needed for a plain shirtwaist with a 3-inch peplum? The length of the front is 20 inches, of the back 16 inches, of the sleeve 22 inches. (Rule a.) 5. How much georgette crepe 36 inches wide is required for a plain waist with a 1/2-inch hem at the belt for elastic belting? The front of the waist measures 15 inches, the back 14 inches, and the sleeve 18 inches. (Rule b.) 6. A wide sailor collar that takes an extra 12 yard of the material is used for trimming this waist. If the georgette crepe costs $2.25 a yard, what is the cost of material for the blouse? 7. A saleswoman told a customer that the average person would need 212 yards of linen for a shirtwaist. The customer was a woman with a 36-inch bust measure. If the front of the waist is 17 inches long and has a 3-inch peplum, the back 15, and the sleeve 22 inches, how much more will she have than is necessary? If the linen cost $1.50 a yard, how much can she save by making her own estimate? 8. A shirtwaist is to be made of white voile 1 yard wide at 85 cents a yard. How much material is required if the front measures 16 inches, the back 15 inches, and the sleeve without the cuff 18 inches, and the waist is finished at the belt with a 12-inch hem for an elastic. What is the cost of the material? 9. How much gingham 1 yard wide is required for a plain straight skirt and shirtwaist? The skirt is to be 26 inches long. It measures 2 yards around the bottom and is finished with a 312-inch |
